Albania has a high Human Development Index and provides a universal health care system and free primary and secondary education. Albania's service sector dominates the country's economy, followed by the industrial sector and agriculture.
Following my cycle tour of the Peloponnisis five years ago, I needed another challenge. To cycle from a neighbouring country seemed to give the idea a bit more of a dramatic feel, but there are not many options that would be viable.
Just to cycle from the Albanian border was not enough, but from Tirana would be much more interesting. Originally it was intended that I would fly to Tirana, but the idea of going with car back-up was much more appealing, because I would not have to carry luggage. The back up team had made other arrangements for the narrow window that I could do the trip and it looked bleak for a while, but then Sheila agreed to drive back. I must say that I have a lot of admiration for a woman that is prepared to drive alone in an unknown country!
Day 1: We set off early to allow for the closed road at Myrtos and to get to Fiskardo for the Lefkada ferry. Then we drove north through Arta and Ioannina. We came to a major road junction just after the village of Kalpaki, but completely devoid of any signs. Just to make sure this was the road to the Albanian border, we retraced to the village and confirmed this was indeed the correct road. All our documents were accepted at the border and we continued our drive north. Not very far into Albania and we were stopped by police. The policeman reached inside the open window and switched on the headlights. Apparently it is law to have headlights switched on at all times. I imagine this was in an effort to cut down on car accidents and it does seem to make oncoming cars much more visible. About another 10 kms down the road and we were stopped by a police check once again. This time we were waved through as soon as they realised we were driving a Greek car. Despite numerous police checks along all Albanian roads, we were never stopped again!
We reached our night stop at Gjirokastra and found the hotel after a drive through narrow cobbled streets. Its' old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and described as "a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman town''. The hotel turned out to be a delight, very traditional appearance and furnishings. The owner did not speak much English, but we understood enough to establish that the American Ambassador to Albania had stayed in the same bedroom. A framed letter of thanks from him, adorned the wall.
We explored the local area and toured the castle nearby, which overlooked the town. Then back to the hotel for a meal. There was no menu and it became clear that they would provide us with the sort of meal they would eat themselves. It was excellent with salad, beefburgers, cheese pastry, stuffed vine leaves, stuffed peppers, chips and very strong wine. In fact two glasses almost put us on the floor! This meal cost just 15 euros for the two of us.
Day 2: The day started with a wonderful breakfast with honey balls and a jar of honey, followed by fried egg and fried cheese and then a sweet cake. There was a choice of tea or coffee, but thankfully we chose the tea. This turned out to be a glass teapot and the hot water had been steeped in herbs. Delicious!
Heading north again, the countryside became flatter and we came to Fier, a very busy town. Having found our way through onto the Durres road, we were now on a modern duel carriageway road across flat countryside.
Passing by the fields, we became aware that there was virtually no mechanization. Many of the fields were being cultivated by hand tools alone and donkeys seemed to be a common mode of transport. There were also many horse drawn carts and it all seemed stuck in a bygone age. Except for many Mercedes and BMWs passing us! Mercedes seemed to be the most popular car on the roads. Whether true or not, I heard that in the past, many Mercedes cars were stolen from Switzerland and ended up in Albania.
We passed by Durres and then onto a busy road to the capital, Tirana. My original idea was to spend some time sightseeing here, but time constraints and a fear of Tirana drivers, led me to an alternative plan. Few Albanian towns/cities have a sign on the outskirts announcing the name of the place and Tirana was no exception. Without a sign to take a photo, I decided on this busy roundabout. I put my cycling gear on and wheeled the bike through the traffic jam and onto an island, to get a photo. I did feel that I had the attention of many people stood on the roadside to watch the photo shoot!
Heading north again, the countryside became flatter and we came to Fier, a very busy town. Having found our way through onto the Durres road, we were now on a modern duel carriageway road across flat countryside.
Passing by the fields, we became aware that there was virtually no mechanization. Many of the fields were being cultivated by hand tools alone and donkeys seemed to be a common mode of transport. There were also many horse drawn carts and it all seemed stuck in a bygone age. Except for many Mercedes and BMWs passing us! Mercedes seemed to be the most popular car on the roads. Whether true or not, I heard that in the past, many Mercedes cars were stolen from Switzerland and ended up in Albania.
We passed by Durres and then onto a busy road to the capital, Tirana. My original idea was to spend some time sightseeing here, but time constraints and a fear of Tirana drivers, led me to an alternative plan. Few Albanian towns/cities have a sign on the outskirts announcing the name of the place and Tirana was no exception. Without a sign to take a photo, I decided on this busy roundabout. I put my cycling gear on and wheeled the bike through the traffic jam and onto an island, to get a photo. I did feel that I had the attention of many people stood on the roadside to watch the photo shoot!
I cycled along this very busy road back towards Durres and arranged to meet Sheila on the outskirts, so that we could find our way to the hotel. Although only 40 kms, I was glad to get this ride over with, due to the fast moving traffic. What I had noticed while we were driving northwards, was that along these busy roads, the local cyclists tend to cycle in the opposite direction to the traffic! I am pretty sure this must be a self preservation ploy, so that they have the option of jumping out of the way if a vehicle comes towards them.
With a minor deviation into the dock area, we then got onto the road to the hotel and found it quite easily. The hotel porter was somewhat official and initially would not allow my bike inside the hotel. When I made it clear we would not be staying otherwise, he allowed it to be locked in the lobby area.
Our room was very well appointed, with a cubicle shower and large King sized bed. The balcony looked over the sea, although this view was between buildings!
We went to explore the local area and had a walk along the sea front past many bars and restaurants. Then we came to the Venetian Tower and headed for the 2nd century Roman Amphitheater. This was impressive and would have seated 20,000, but before being discovered in the 1990s, some of it had already been built on. Apparently, there are now plans to remove the buildings!
Day 3: After an excellent buffet breakfast, which allowed me to stuff lots of food in, to get me through the first high mileage day. We drove to the edge of the city to avoid Sheila getting lost and I set out down the road to Fier, which we had travelled on the previous day. The road was flat and fast, I got into a high gear and started spinning. It was like the old time trial days and I felt like I was hurtling along. The 73 kms to Fier took just over 2.5 hours at an average of 30.4 kms/hr! I met up with Sheila on the Vlore road and we stopped at a bar for a drink and rest. I had deliberately worn a high visibility cycling vest today, after experiencing the high speed traffic on this road yesterday.
The next section of road to Vlore was either motorway or the old road. I didn't have any desire to go on the motorway (which is not in the same sense as a UK motorway) and stopped just outside the town to confirm which was the old road. A group of people were trying to understand what I was saying and then a young woman, who spoke better English, confirmed the road, but warned it was not in great condition. True, there were bad sections where I had to slow down to avoid the potholes, but better bits where I could get a decent speed going. I rode into Vlore and met Sheila near the sea front. I asked a taxi driver the way to the hotel and he pointed the way and gestured that there was a big sign for it. Later, when we went for a walk, we met him again and he not only remembered us, but greeted us like old friends! Today I had covered 113 kms at an average speed of 27 kms/hr!
The hotel turned out to be another very modern building and with the bonus of being on the sea front.
The hotel lobby was quite a sight when all these lights were lit!
Once again, a very well appointed room with sea view. We ate an evening meal in the hotel again, however there was a slight language barrier. I asked for something involving scampi, which was on the menu and was told it was illegal to catch and sell it. So I opted for a pasta meal instead.
Day 3: Today was about to turn out to be one of the toughest endurance events I have ever tackled!
I set off out of Vlore on the Serande road and had an easy 15 kms until the road started rising, gently at first and then more steeply. I started to climb into pine forests and mountain scenery, even with snow on the mountain top. I stopped a couple of times at springs to taste the cold pure water and to wash the sweat off. Both times I put my sunglasses down and forgot to pick them up! Luckily I had realized within a couple of hundred metres, but then had to climb the same terrain again. Eventually I reached the summit at 1030 metres and met Sheila at a restaurant and lookout point for a drink.
Part way up the climb looking back towards Vlore.
The view from the top of the pass, looking down to a deserted beach.
The road down on the other side of the pass was in open country and I could see the road snaking away below me, with many hairpins to contend with. The descent needed concentration and it was many kilometres before reaching the lowest point. I passed by a river delta, which I had seen previously from the Patra to Venice ferry, but never considered that one day I would cycle past it.
The climbs were certainly not over and every time the road diverted round a river or went through a coastal village, there was the inevitable climb out again. I was now beginning to get some symptoms of being exposed to the sun all day, with a running nose and sweat running into my eyes. I also began to suffer cramp in my right leg on the climbs. This was something I hadn't experienced before, even when running marathons and I made a note to put plenty of salt on my dinner that evening. The road seemed endless and I mentally ticked off every kilometre on my cycle computer. In situations like this I try to take my mind off the situation and think about other things. However, my mind kept coming back to two thoughts, ice cream and beer!
Eventually I reached Sarande after 126 kms, averaging only 17 kms/hr and being 'in the saddle' for 7 hours. Having agreed to meet Sheila at the sea front before looking for the hotel, I could not find her or the car. There was no phone signal, so I decided all I could do was go to the hotel and hope that she could find it. Within metres of getting there, she came along the road and explained that she had gone into the town and had waited there.
The hotel staff were so helpful, although somewhat shocked that someone had cycled all the way from Vlore. Another impressive hotel with beautiful furnishings, sea view and a glass outside lift! We immediately went out for the beer that I was craving, but alas, no ice cream. I was doing my Facebook bit later in the lobby and the receptionist insisted that I go to the top floor where the atmosphere would be much more enjoyable. How right she was! The terrace on the roof had a panoramic view of the sea and across the water to Corfu. Another Albanian beer was enjoyed while I worked on the computer and then we enjoyed the sunset from our vantage point.
The beautifully furnished room at Serande Seaside Hotel.
A view of Corfu from the rooftop terrace
The rooftop restaurant
Sunset from the rooftop
Day 4: The day started with a lovely breakfast in the hotel rooftop restaurant, with lots of choices and fresh fruit salad with yoghurt. We were already on the road going south and I reached Butrint National Park after about 15 kms. I am sure this would be a lovely area to visit and explore, but time didn't allow. This road involved a short ferry crossing on a chain driven raft. I met Sheila here and we waited some time before someone asked why we were waiting. He whistled and waved and the ferry made its' way across to us.
Waiting for the ferry.
This picture was too good to miss, with the Triangular Venetian Fortress in the background and beyond that, the ferry.
The road from here was flat for a change and I made good time until the road turned into a potholed track. We had been warned by the hotel that there was about a kilometre of unmade road and we had agreed that Sheila would wait here in case it was too bad to cycle. To avoid any damage to the bike I decided to use the car for this short section.
The track soon joined a well engineered road and I made good time before reaching the Greek border. I then had to wait for Sheila, who had taken a wrong turn. We had no problems with formalities and agreed to meet again at the Gitani Hydroelectric dam, where we had a spot of lunch.
I arranged to meet Sheila at the sea front in Igoumenitsa, but there was no sign of her when I got there. Either she hadn't heard me or had taken a wrong turn, because a phone call established that she was waiting on the Preveza road. Once I had climbed out of Igoumenitsa, the road to Parga was relatively flat and fast and we met again in Parga, with no idea where the hotel was. A bar owner kindly phoned them and the cleaner arranged to meet us at a crossroads. The Albanian cleaner got in the car and with me following, guided us through the narrow streets, very reminiscent of Cornwall. We got as near as we could to the hotel to unload bags and then had to back track to a car park. Actually, this time I had booked an apartment which had a separate kitchen and a balcony looking out onto the Castle and bay down below. We were presented with a jar of caramelized fruit and a jar of marmalade, which was a nice touch.
Today I had covered 114 kms at an average speed of 22.3 kms/hr.
Today I had covered 114 kms at an average speed of 22.3 kms/hr.
I couldn't connect to the internet at the apartment and I also had a flat battery, so after charging, we went out for a meal and to make the usual post on Facebook. The meal was generous, with more than we could eat, but the cost for one of us was the same that two could eat for in Albania.
The Castle at Parga
Day 5: We enjoyed a breakfast of items we had bought in a local shop and of course, the marmalade that we had been given. The road south to Preveza was reasonably easy with some great views of the coastline. I met Sheila at the tunnel under the mouth of the Ambracian Gulf, rather amusingly called an immersion roadway on the signs. This was completed in 2002 and avoided the use of ferries, at a toll charge of 3 euros for a car. I wasn't sure whether cyclists were allowed through and in any case it might not be safe , so I opted for the car.
Next stop was Lefkada Town, so we arranged to meet just the other side of the bridge from the mainland to the island. I found Sheila quite easily, but then I had a craving for ice cream and we went to many establishments looking for some. Eventually we found a cafe and a large bowl of ice cream gave me the stamina to complete the rest of the ride to Vasiliki. This was easy enough to start with, having done this stretch by bike only last October. But after Vliko, the road begins to climb and once at the top of the main climb, the road continues with some minor climbs before dropping down to Vasiliki. I found this quite hard after covering about 100 kms already. I met Sheila at the ferry and I had got there with two hours to spare before the sailing and plenty of time for a beer and a snack. We had intended to stay in Vasiliki had we not made the ferry, but now we contacted some friends with a B & B near Fiskardo, to stay the night there.
Today I had covered 118 kms at an average of 22.3 kms/hr. Thank God this was the last high mileage day!
On arrival at Fiskardo, I took the car for this short section, because we were uncertain where the accommodation was. It turned out to be a wonderfully restored pre-earthquake house, which Sue and Karen were rightly proud of. Having spent many years restoring the house and grounds, I suspect they could write a book about the pleasures and pitfalls of restoring a Greek house.
Today I had covered 118 kms at an average of 22.3 kms/hr. Thank God this was the last high mileage day!
On arrival at Fiskardo, I took the car for this short section, because we were uncertain where the accommodation was. It turned out to be a wonderfully restored pre-earthquake house, which Sue and Karen were rightly proud of. Having spent many years restoring the house and grounds, I suspect they could write a book about the pleasures and pitfalls of restoring a Greek house.
Almond House
We had a lovely meal in the village taverna and having eaten too much again, we struggled back up to the house.
Day 6: A wonderful breakfast at Amigdalospiti with fresh orange juice and fruit salad with yoghurt. Thank goodness I had less kilometres to do today, although it was confirmed that there was no way through the closed road at Myrtos for even a pedestrian, so I had the prospect of the long way round to get home. Now that we were back on the island, I left Sheila to make her way home and I expected to complete the journey by 2 pm. I took the slightly less hilly route through Karia, Andipata to Myrtos and then down the coast to Argostoli and then back to Valeriano. Near Myrtos by complete chance, I met Guido on his way to deliver luggage to a hotel and it was nice to meet up and exchange news. Within sight of home, a bee got caught in my crash helmet and I stopped to take it off and brush the bee away, but not before if had stung me. Today I had covered another 75 kms and the grand total was 586 kms.
One last word! Before going on this trip, I had been warned about the danger to cyclists of loose and dangerous dogs. There were many loose dogs in Albania, but not a single one chased me or even barked at me. Then, back in a village in Kefalonia, a snarling dog jumped out and chased me down the road. What is it about Greek dogs?
Many thanks to Sheila for the driving, Fotis at Efrosini for the information and Guido for the loan of a new bike.
