April 2019
Having completed two previous cycling challenges, a circuit of the Peloponnese 10 years ago and a journey from to Tirana to Kefalonia 5 years ago, I was now looking for a new challenge in my 75th year. It had to be something a bit different, that perhaps no one else had done. I had cycled round most of the Ionian islands, but what about the Aegean? Perhaps I could do a different island every day, but to find a route that worked with ferry times, would be more difficult. When I looked at the map, there seemed to be a semi circle of 6 islands, with the first and last quite close to the mainland.
I had planned to do this alone, by leaving a car at the departure port of Rafina and then completely by bike. I would come back to Lavrio and then get a taxi back to collect the car. This would mean taking luggage on my hybrid bike as I had done for the Peloponnese. Having mentioned my plan to Dennis, he had expressed interest and the plan began to evolve into taking a car to each island and both wives would act as back up. The advantage was that we could do it on race bikes and luggage could be carried in the car.
The other considerations were avoiding Easter, when the ferries and accommodation would be busy and a slot in April when not too much rain was forecast. The last island, Kea, only had limited ferry connections, so working backwards we would have to leave on a Friday and we decided on the 12th.
After a ferry crossing to the mainland and a long drive to Rafina, we caught a very busy ferry at 17.30 to Andros, our first destination. This would be our longest ferry crossing, but would allow us a full day on the morrow to get some miles in. The accommodation had a sea view and the advantage that it was near the port of Gavrio, but no breakfast. We had a decent meal in the town and went to the same taverna for breakfast.
Arrival in Andros
Ostria Hotel
The ride the next day was our longest at 95 kms and 2800 metres of climbing. Andros turned out to have some wonderful views and picturesque villages. Turning south out of the port town of Gavrio, we cycled for 5 kms before turning inland and climbing over the central mountain spine. Somewhere near the top, we were confused at a junction without signs. Two ladies stopped, having seen us studying a map and pointed the way toward Andros town. We had arranged to meet the wives in Andros Town and we arrived at the waterfront and realized that the town was on higher ground above us on a promontory. We climbed countless steps with our bikes on our shoulders and headed for the sound of faint music. The music became louder and we arrived at a full blown Greek festival. It was an assault on the senses with families watching the procession through the town following the brass band. We couldn't have arrived at a better time!
The band
We left the town by a delightful minor road, which led us to the main road after the inevitable climb. We then headed south, before turning north again to complete a circuit. Just 5 kms from the hotel we were hit by a rain storm, which left the roads flooded and we were soaked through. It was good to get back and be able to dry out and change to dry clothes.
We had a decent meal in the town, but the taverna was popular with teenagers and became full to bursting. We decided to have a pudding after our meal and were served with a confection from the cabinet free of charge.
After breakfast in town, we caught another busy ferry to Tinos, arriving about midday. Turning left out of the Port, we found Galini bungalows in an elevated location with wonderful views across the sea. Wasting no time, we set off on a tour of the island covering 60 kms and 1400 metres of climbing. We followed the coast for a short way on a minor road and then climbed up to the main island road.
We were caught up in the mass migration of Painted Lady butterflies, heading north from North Africa. It was as if we were cycling through clouds of them and I had to weave about to try to avoid running over them. Passing windmills, we came to Isternia, a beautiful whitewashed town. Then confused by the lack of signposting (and poor map reading!) we took a road down to the coast at Panormia. Then it was a case of backtracking uphill to find the correct road.
Having completed two previous cycling challenges, a circuit of the Peloponnese 10 years ago and a journey from to Tirana to Kefalonia 5 years ago, I was now looking for a new challenge in my 75th year. It had to be something a bit different, that perhaps no one else had done. I had cycled round most of the Ionian islands, but what about the Aegean? Perhaps I could do a different island every day, but to find a route that worked with ferry times, would be more difficult. When I looked at the map, there seemed to be a semi circle of 6 islands, with the first and last quite close to the mainland.
I had planned to do this alone, by leaving a car at the departure port of Rafina and then completely by bike. I would come back to Lavrio and then get a taxi back to collect the car. This would mean taking luggage on my hybrid bike as I had done for the Peloponnese. Having mentioned my plan to Dennis, he had expressed interest and the plan began to evolve into taking a car to each island and both wives would act as back up. The advantage was that we could do it on race bikes and luggage could be carried in the car.
The other considerations were avoiding Easter, when the ferries and accommodation would be busy and a slot in April when not too much rain was forecast. The last island, Kea, only had limited ferry connections, so working backwards we would have to leave on a Friday and we decided on the 12th.
After a ferry crossing to the mainland and a long drive to Rafina, we caught a very busy ferry at 17.30 to Andros, our first destination. This would be our longest ferry crossing, but would allow us a full day on the morrow to get some miles in. The accommodation had a sea view and the advantage that it was near the port of Gavrio, but no breakfast. We had a decent meal in the town and went to the same taverna for breakfast.
The ride the next day was our longest at 95 kms and 2800 metres of climbing. Andros turned out to have some wonderful views and picturesque villages. Turning south out of the port town of Gavrio, we cycled for 5 kms before turning inland and climbing over the central mountain spine. Somewhere near the top, we were confused at a junction without signs. Two ladies stopped, having seen us studying a map and pointed the way toward Andros town. We had arranged to meet the wives in Andros Town and we arrived at the waterfront and realized that the town was on higher ground above us on a promontory. We climbed countless steps with our bikes on our shoulders and headed for the sound of faint music. The music became louder and we arrived at a full blown Greek festival. It was an assault on the senses with families watching the procession through the town following the brass band. We couldn't have arrived at a better time!
The band
Leaving Andros Town
We left the town by a delightful minor road, which led us to the main road after the inevitable climb. We then headed south, before turning north again to complete a circuit. Just 5 kms from the hotel we were hit by a rain storm, which left the roads flooded and we were soaked through. It was good to get back and be able to dry out and change to dry clothes.
We had a decent meal in the town, but the taverna was popular with teenagers and became full to bursting. We decided to have a pudding after our meal and were served with a confection from the cabinet free of charge.
The view from Galini Bungalows
After breakfast in town, we caught another busy ferry to Tinos, arriving about midday. Turning left out of the Port, we found Galini bungalows in an elevated location with wonderful views across the sea. Wasting no time, we set off on a tour of the island covering 60 kms and 1400 metres of climbing. We followed the coast for a short way on a minor road and then climbed up to the main island road.
We were caught up in the mass migration of Painted Lady butterflies, heading north from North Africa. It was as if we were cycling through clouds of them and I had to weave about to try to avoid running over them. Passing windmills, we came to Isternia, a beautiful whitewashed town. Then confused by the lack of signposting (and poor map reading!) we took a road down to the coast at Panormia. Then it was a case of backtracking uphill to find the correct road.
Dennis with windmill and lighthouse in background
Isternia
Isternia church
Me at Panormia
We had hoped to visit Volax for its' volcanic scenery, but when we got to the turning going uphill, we both agreed that this might be a hill too far and could perhaps be left for tomorrow.
The next day we had a morning to do further exploring before the ferry, so decided to use the car to visit Volax, so that the wives had a chance to visit some very unusual scenery. The area was a mass of littered volcanic boulders and these were used in situ, as walls for the houses.
Volax boulders
Bicycle in Volax
Volax village house
We explored the surrounding countryside and I don't think I have seen anything like it before. The countryside was a maze of littered boulders, which must have been ejected from a massive volcanic explosion.
The next ferry at midday was to Mykonos and on arrival we made our way to our booked accommodation at Paradise Beach Resort. This was well appointed bungalows and was a good choice at this time of year. however, I dread to think how noisy this must be in the main season, when it would be full of young people. The complex had a beach side bar and restaurant and a very nice sandy beach.
We went for a 40 km ride to visit the east side of the island with the intention of touring the north end the next morning.
After leaving Paradise Beach, we skirted the airport and headed east by way of Vothonas and Ano Mera with the intention of getting to Kalafatis. A sign said Kalafatis Beach and we followed this road to an attractive beach, but a dead end! Backtracking, we decided not to go to Kalafatis and we returned to Paradise Beach. Considering this was April, the roads were extremely busy and in many places, in very poor condition. It was therefore not an ideal place for cycling and rather disappointing.
Kalafatis Beach
Paradise Beach
Paradise Beach resort reception
Paradise Beach Resort murals
Luckily we had escaped any bad weather on our cycle ride, but later the sun disappeared and the sky clouded over. We had a decent meal in the restaurant and prepared for the next day. During the night we were treated to a thunder storm and heavy rain, which flooded the complex and we had to paddle through the water to get out of our bungalow the next morning. There was a very comprehensive buffet breakfast, with choices to suit every one's preference. The day brought strong winds and a chance of further storms and we had to make the decision to abandon this mornings cycle ride and it was agreed to explore Mykonos Town on foot. The area was known as Little Venice and consisted of quaint shops in extremely narrow lanes. Even in April there was considerable congestion and it must have been very claustrophobic when crowded in hot weather.
The distinctive Mykonos Town
Our next ferry was to Syros and I was seriously concerned whether our ferry would operate in the very strong winds. However the ferry did run and it was an amazing sight to see the wild sea streaked with white. We were sat on the passenger deck, high up at the rear of the ferry and the spray from the wild sea was almost hiding our view through the window!
Finding the accommodation was a bit of a challenge. We knew roughly where it was, but eventually found it hidden away in a side street. Rather quaint rooms, but located on the ground floor and no windows to look out of, so it felt a little confined. After settling in, we walked into the town called Hermoupolis and after a wander round, settled on a waterfront restaurant.
The Customs House, Hermoupoli
After breakfast, which was provided in the room, we did a circuit of 30 kms, visiting the seaside villages of Gallisos, Finikes and Vari. Almost back into town and a short diversion led to the Pest House. This imposing building had been used as an isolation hospital and also a prison, but was now falling into disrepair. Only in Greece could a building with a rich history, be left to become a ruin.
Dennis admiring the scenery
Pest House, Hermoupoli
Finikes
On arrival back at Hermoupoli waterfront, we sat on one of the seats and had some lunch. We decided to spend some of the afternoon exploring the northern part of the island and we began an uphill climb out of the town, as far as Ano Syros. For some reason we had turned left instead of following the main road round to the right and then realizing the mistake, we had to turn round on a steep road. For safety, it is always a good idea to unclip from the pedals when turning at a slow speed and especially on such an incline. Dennis had forgotten to do this and promptly fell off. In doing so he not only received some wounds to himself, but also broke his chain in the process. We now had a dilemma what to do next. After trying to stop the bleeding from his wounds with all the tissues we had, it was obvious that we could not continue. Thank goodness it was all downhill back to the main town, where we hoped to find a bike shop and would not require any pedalling. Then the Gods smiled on us, because on the way down there was the bike shop, but not only that, it was very well stocked. The owner found the correct size chain and spent some time fitting it. He didn't charge for fitting, but we were so pleased, we gave him some extra euros.
Sheila and I had a wander round the town while Dennis and Wendy had a visit to the hospital, who did a wonderful job of patching him up. We then met up ready for the next ferry to Kythnos at 18.00
Kythnos mainly consisted of a central spine road following the mountain ridge, with side roads dropping down to the coast. The ferry port was at Merikas and our accommodation was situated here. despite it being a small town, it was quite difficult to locate Foinikas Studios. This was perhaps the most disappointing place we had stayed and seemed as if they had opened for the season, but forgotten to do cleaning and maintenance. However, there was a very nice taverna around the corner, which looked after us very well.
Our next ferry was an afternoon one, so we had limited time to ride as far as possible. I had earmarked Loutra Springs as a place to visit, so that was our first destination. The hot springs run down a stream and into a rocky pool before entering the sea. It was a strange sight to see a stream of steaming water, but some bathers were sat in the pool taking advantage of the hot bath.
Loutra Springs
After Loutra, we climbed up to the Spine road and followed it south, before turning back downhill to Merikas. Today's ride was only about 25 kms, but at least 300 metres of climbing.
The next ferry was in the afternoon to Kea, our last island.
On arrival at the ferry port of Korissia, we drove to the capital town of Ioulis. This was a central point for our stay and would be ideal for a circuit of the island. The accommodation Serie, was ideal, being on a high point with amazing views across the island to the sea beyond.
Serie
We wasted no time in exploring the narrow cobbled streets of Ioulis and had an enjoyable meal overlooking the surrounding countryside.
The next morning we missed breakfast to get an early start at 8.00. I wasn't too pleased about this, but we had to do a decent ride before the afternoon ferry. We cycled mostly downhill to Pisses and then followed the coast southwards. While following Dennis, I noticed his back tyre was flatter than it should be and it soon went down altogether. We stopped to change the inner tube, but could not find any reason for the puncture. It wasn't long before it went down again and this time we did a more thorough search for the offending sharp object. We scoured the rim for imperfections and finally Dennis managed to find a tiny piece of wire that almost needed a microscope to spot. We were on our last spare inner tube, so we now starting praying that we had found the culprit.
Puncture repairs
After passing several attractive bays, we headed inland and uphill.
The coastal road
Nearly back to Ioulis
The tyre held out, the road was picturesque, but always seemed to be uphill. Something very strange happened on this road and I was so shocked, I forgot to take a photo. A guy had two cows on the road and was sat on a stool milking them! I imagine he does this every day, but certainly something I hadn't seen before. Eventually we reached our starting point Ioulis and in good time. This left time for a more thorough venture to explore the town and visit the Ioulis Lion, carved into a rock more than 2500 years ago. A visit to the archaeological museum was very interesting and time well spent.
Unfortunately, I got carried away with my exploration, arriving back to the others, who were waiting to depart to the ferry port.
Ioulis alley
Ioulis
Ioulis transport
Ioulis Lion
That was our tour of six Cyclades islands. In all we had cycled only about 300 kms, but to emphasize the mountainous terrain, we had climbed an incredible 7,312 metres.
The ferry took us to Lavrio on the mainland, but there was not enough time this day to get to Kefalonia, so the plan was to drive to Corinth and find a hotel. After driving around the city several times, we found the perfect hotel in the city centre. Hotel Elphira allowed us to store the bikes in the hotel and it was easy to find somewhere to eat in the evening.
Corinth from hotel
Getting out of Corinth and onto the motorway to Patras was not easy and we managed to do few detours before finding the access. We reached Kilini in time for the 12.30 ferry and arrived home in good time.
My earlier cycle ride from Tirana had raised more than 1000 euros towards the Kefalonia Animal Trust and I was persuaded to do a similar fund raising effort. This time I raised over 800 euros, so a good result all round.
My thanks go to Dennis and Wendy for their company and help with the planning, as well as Sheila of course.
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